Day 1 - Lake Louise Ski Resort to Skoki Lodge via Deception Pass (11 km, 550m elevation)
Skies were partly cloudy and snow was fast and slick for the ski in to Skoki Lodge. The trail was open with lovely views the whole way. No need to stop at the halfway hut, as the trip only took three hours, including a nice break for lunch at Ptarmigan Lake. Deception pass was a slog on the way up but thrillingly fast on the ride down. We spent the afternoon enjoying the delicious snacks and cozy wood-burning stove at the Lodge.
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| View looking back at Lake Louise and Mt. Temple from Boulder Pass |
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Lunching at Ptarmigan Lake
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| Getting ready for the descent from Deception Pass |
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| Skoki Lodge - rustic and cozy |
Day 2 - Natural Bridge & Beyond (26 km, unknown elevation)
The Natural Bridge and side mountain bowl above it made for a spectacular day trip. While the estimated 26 km seems like a long day, the majority was flat through open meadows. The wind-blown crust and occasional soft patches of snow also made for fast, but unfortunately noisy, travel. We skirted Skoki Mountain through Jones Pass, then crossed the meadows to the Warden's Cabin.
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| Looking out over the meadows from the Warden's Cabin |
From there we followed tracks from previous skiers through the meadows by Red Deer Lakes, where we found wolf tracks and enjoyed the open views. Having veered off trail, we had to bushwhack for a short while through some trees, and Sam spotted a grouse along the way.
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| Wolf tracks in the meadows |
We found the trail again soon enough, having aimed appropriately for the valley east of Oyster Peak, and then followed the creek until we reached the Natural Bridge.
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| Natural Bridge |
Sam wanted to get a shot of me on top of the Natural Bridge, but after heading up along the left I discovered the many cornices along the route to the top of the bridge and decided against it. We found the trail heading up the left side of the bridge (through the woods a bit first) and found ourselves in a stunning meadow in a wide bowl of Oyster Peak and neighboring mountains.
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| Looking for a lunch spot in the bowl above the Natural Bridge |
We enjoyed our lunch with incredible views and some cold wind, then carried on meandering through the seemingly untouched wilderness. Leading the way, I found a ravine that headed up to the north end of the bowl and followed it upward through deep powder. At the top of the ravine we decided it was a good turnaround point, so we sped back down the ravine and enjoyed a nice loop around the meadow.
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| This ravine looks fun to explore - let's see where it takes us |
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| Exploring the meadows in the wide bowl along Oyster Peak |
On our way back down and back to the Lodge we found the actual trail. While easier to follow, the trail took us through the woods, which was not as pretty, and the snow was hardened and uneven. We did eventually gain slight elevation above the meadows to a nice view. From there we headed back over Jones Pass, which was just enough elevation gain at the end of the day to truly wear us out.
Day 3 - Oyster Lake & Heart Lake Attempt / Oyster Peak Side Traverse (unknown distance & elevation)
This was an excellent trip with a variety of views and terrain. Unfortunately we got off the "trail" toward Heart Lake and ended up way above, skirting below avalanche run-off paths but challenging our capabilities (and intelligence).
We started again through Jones Pass and took the trail marked with tape to the right, heading slightly upward along Fossil Mountain to the valley between Fossil and Oyster Peak. With no wind and not a soul in sight, this valley was spectacularly silent. While our skis were quite loud on the wind-blown crust, every few minutes we would stop to enjoy the utter silence.
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| Sam shows off his skills as we descend into the valley between Fossil and Oyster |
Walter at Skoki Lodge suggested skiing up the creek to Oyster Lake, though as we skied up the valley we missed the initial turn-off and headed up a creek look-alike. We meandered upward, broke trail through trees, eventually put on skins, and then realized we had skied well past the lake. We booked it straight up the slope to reach a bench and ski backward toward the lake.
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| No need to switchback - Sam heads straight up the mountain |
Oyster Lake is above treelike and sits in a deep bowl, where we enjoyed sights of an avalanche runoff and goat tracks that headed straight up a peak.
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Approaching Oyster Lake
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| Oyster Lake |
After lunch at Oyster Lake we went back the way we came and continued to a knoll, of which we were instructed to stay left. It wasn't until much later that we realized we were supposed to go in the divot just below the knoll, so instead we stayed high to the left and continued to traverse alongside Oyster Peak, slowly gaining elevation, waiting to turn a corner and arrive at Heart Lake.
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| Traversing Oyster Peak, with our knoll off to the right |
After a fairly significant climb we finally turned an edge to a magnificent view and discovered Heart Lake well below us. We also had views down the valley toward Baker Creek, of Baker Lake, and Ptarmigan Lake. We enjoyed the view, didn't linger too long, and chose to return back the way we came so as not to traverse any further areas that probably weren't suited for the avalanche conditions.
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| The view after turning the edge - Heart Lake is the white patch in the bottom right corner - Oops! |
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| Great views all around! |
The return was quick, skidding down along the mountain and then enjoying some powder in the creek once we lost some elevation.
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| Making our way down the ravine, with Fossil Mtn in the background |
In the end, I was glad we missed the bench along which we were supposed to ski, as the accidental elevation gain provided us with some excellent views, but it was probably a dangerous mistake that shouldn't be repeated!
Day 4 - Skoki Lodge to Lake Louise; detour to Hidden Lake (~17 km)
After over 12 hours of non-stop snow, the skies cleared just in time for our ski out. The sun glistened on the 25+ cm of fresh powder, which made for a soft underfoot and spectacular views with snow clinging to the trees. Sam kept getting way ahead because I had to stop every 50 feet to savor the surroundings and take pictures - each corner we turned seemed more amazing than the next.
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| Shortly after leaving Skoki, heading toward Deception Pass |
It was a slog up to Deception Pass, but luckily some split boarders got an earlier start and broke trail for us. We also got to witness a fairly large avalanche off the Wall of Jericho.
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| The glistening snow was incredible |
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| Taking a break and enjoying the sun on our way up |
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| Wall of Jericho and Skoki Lakes |
The ride down from Deception was much more manageable than anticipated. Sam decided to use the powder as a break and head straight down the pass, while I surprisingly got a few turns in - my first turns on the light touring skis!
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| Looking back up at Deception Pass - it looks like nothing from this angle! |
After breaking at the same viewpoint above Ptarmigan Lake, we began the fun, pleasant descent from Boulder Pass, and we quickly arrived at the turnoff for the Halfway Hut. Wanting to extend our day's tour, we decided to head up the 1.3 km trail to Hidden Lake - a seemingly easy detour. Unfortunately, breaking trail through a foot of powder was the least of our concerns. With warming temperatures and a beating sun in the early afternoon, the snow became sticky and we skied the whole way, with over 100 meters elevation gain, with what felt like bowling balls attached to our feet.
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| Sweet skills |
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| Sam breaks trail through sticky snow |
The views at Hidden Lake were lovely for a lunch break, and we got to see another avalanche, but that 'quick' detour wore us out more than one could imagine for 2.6 km.
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| Lunching at Hidden Lake |
The ski back to Temple Lodge at Lake Louise ski resort was a nice gentle down, but we fought sticky snow the whole time. We decided to continue down the ski out at the resort, which was thrillingly fast at times and painfully flat at others - probably not the best decision when you're exhausted!
Our four days at Skoki were spectacular. If I could do it again, I wouldn't change anything! Great snow, views, opportunities to explore, company, food, and lots of time for relaxation.
